The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia is part of the great Balkan region of Europe. The small Balkan country’s glorious history begins with Alexander the Great, spreading its name throughout the ancient world and ends with today’s struggle for the modern world’s recognition. Macedonia may be small, however, the land and the people that inhabit it offer a richness and beauty that cannot be found elsewhere in the world. This photographic project will focus on a region that has been lost in time and offer a black and white view of a people that refuse to leave their land and let go of their past.
One of these little known, yet exceptional regions of Macedonia is Mariovo. Mariovo is a region in southern Macedonia. The river Crna flows across the whole area of Mariovo, creating the largest canyon in Macedonia which is around 100 km long. Today, this region inhabits less than 1000 residents. Its tiny villages are strewn through the mountainous terrain. Throughout the 28 villages that encompass the region, the majority of the residents are over 70 years old, with only 6 of them being children. The dynamic of the residents of this region gives it the name “The Dying Region”.
One of the better known villages of the region is Shtavica. The village of Shtavica is known as “Little Hollywood” because the Macedonian film director, Milcho Manchevski, filmed many scenes from his movies there. Mr. Manchevski chose this region for the appeal of its old world charm. From the horse drawn carriages to the stone built homes, Shtavica is a place where time stands still. At any point during the day, the men gather to reminisce on days gone by as women gather water at the local well. This village has 60 residents, however, in the winter you will find very few of them living there. The conditions are too difficult and many of the elderly villagers leave for the cities of Prilep and Bitola to stay with their children that have since given up on their birthplace.
After a 45 minute drive over an old treacherous road, I arrived at the village of Chaniste. In front of an abandoned hospital, I found a large group of elderly residents. They welcomed me into their village with open arms and proceeded to invite me into their homes. As we walked through the village I was amazed at the lack of modern amenities the residents faced. There were no roads leading anywhere, simply muddy paths made by the many sheep grazing the village. There wasn’t any distinction between the abandoned or occupied homes, each building was in desperate need of repair. The stench of the village sewage filled the air. None of these things seemed to matter to the elderly people happily showing off where they live. Each villager was excited to tell their story and share why they choose to call the Mariovo region home.
The first home I visited was Vaska Joshevska’s. Grandma Vaska lives alone in her home that was built in 1936. She was eager to show me around the home that she built stone by stone with her husband. Her eyes beamed with pride as she showed me pictures of her wedding day. She was a young bride at a mere 14 years old. However, the love she felt for her now deceased spouse could be felt all around her. Grandma Vaska proceeded to show me pictures of her 6 children who reside all around the world. She looks forward to the day that her youngest granddaughter, who lives in the USA, will marry. She has a special charm made from a precious stone found in the canyon of Mariovo , that she wore on her own wedding day, that she plans to give her. I asked Grandma Vaska if she would like to visit the US one day. She simply responded, “Is it as beautiful as Mariovo?”
I also had the privilege of visiting the home of the eldest resident of the Mariovo region. Her name is Menka Trajkovska and she is over 100 years old. Grandma Menka does not know her actual birth date. A century ago, many people in the region were illiterate, and records were not kept. The people relied on their own memories and the use of word of mouth to spread their history. However, as Grandma Menka ages, her memories are beginning to fade. She loves to tell stories of times past but confuses events decades at a time. The reoccurring theme of her mixed up memories is her love of the land and of the people that are her neighbors, her friends, her family. As many of the elderly residents of the region, Grandma Menka lives off of a monthly pension of 50 euro’s. This alone will not ensure their survival, so the community turns to herding sheep and raising bees. Grandma Menka is grateful that in her old age, her neighbors are there to help provide for her and she hopes that this sense of community continues for many years in the Mariovo Region.
During my entire visit in Chapiste, I could feel eyes following me throughout. Eyes peering over broken wooden fences, eyes gazing from above tall trees, eyes quickly hiding away once they met mine. These deep, piercing eyes did not belong to a 100 year old woman. These eyes belonged to an 8 year old child. I was given the opportunity to meet the boy’s parents and quench the child’s curiosity. However, what I found was a sad state of what the future for this Mariovian village is. This only child in one of 28 villages of this region behaved as if he was feral. He had limited verbal communication, ran wild throughout the village, and was frightened by the click of my camera. Will this child be Mariovo’s future?
I left Mariovo with the promise that I would return to this most interesting and amazing region of Macedonia. I call this place “The Dying Region”, however, I hope that one day the laughter of children will fill the 28 villages of Mariovo.
New Goals For This Project:
During my initial visit to the Mariovo Region, I focused on the elderly. They were eager to share the beauty of the region with me while their fond memories kept them close to the land where they were born. My new focus will be on the six children of the 28 villages that comprise Mariovo. These children are Mariovo’s future. I will be capturing their current life in hopes that the eyes of the people of Macedonia and beyond will be opened to the daily struggles of this beautiful region.
